Rose John Cabot

Winter-hardy roses are an old dream of Canadian breeders. Thanks to the efforts of the scientists of this country, in many northern regions of the world, Canadian roses sounded. In Russia, they adorn the gardens of the Moscow Region, the Urals, Siberia, and the Far East. Rosa John Cabot is the first among the hybrids of the Explorer series, all of which are famous for their frost resistance, unpretentiousness, and plentiful flowering. Simple care of the canadians is possible even for inexperienced gardeners.

Rose John Cabot - Variety Description

John Cabot is the first variety from the Explorer hybrid line that combines frost-resistant rose varieties. The work of breeders for about a century was funded by the government of Canada.

Explorer Series

In 1968, Felicia Sveida was able to create a hybrid by crossing the decorative rose of Cordesia with one of the wild species of Canadian rose hips. This variety was named after the Italian navigator of the 15th century. John Cabot, who studied the shores of distant Canada. All subsequent hybrids Felicia Sveida began to call the names of Canadian discoverers. So there was a series of roses called Explorer (Explorer).

Rose John Cabot

Pros and Cons of John Cabot Rose

Gardeners appreciated the unique qualities of John Cabot, the first-born of the Explorer series, only 30 years after its creation, when it was experimentally established:

• the variety successfully tolerates frosts to -30 ° C, does not require shelter for the winter;
• it is resistant to major diseases of roses;
• gives flowering twice a summer;
• easily propagated by cuttings.

Against the background of the indisputable advantages of the plant, its cons are not visible to everyone:

• weak aroma of flowers, which also quickly fade and fade;
• rare but sharp spikes;
• slow vegetation - in a cold climate, the plant is late with the second flowering wave.

But this does not stop John Cabot's rose bushes from decorating any landscape.

Use in landscaping

The canadian rose John Cabot has versatile decorative properties:

• it looks great as a tapeworm - a lonely bush with lush pink blossoms standing on a green lawn;
• rose branches: flexible, long with sharp spikes - able to form a hedge, mask unprepossessing buildings, beautifully curl around arches and columns;
• rose bush can serve as the main accent of the flower garden, decorate the mixborder.

The first-born of Canadian pink hybrids will organically fit into any park style: classic French, romantic English, rural country landscape and intricate modern.

Drapery Walls and Structures by Canadian Rose John Cabot

Growing

Planting John Cabot is produced mainly by seedlings, which are of two types: root and grafted.

• root - these are bushes grown from cuttings of the original variety; they grow slowly, they give an abundant color only for the 3rd year, but they are distinguished by reinforced concrete endurance, they do not get sick, they never run wild, they bloom up to 40 years;
• grafted seedlings have a characteristic stump in the region of the root neck, a powerful root system, they quickly take root, bloom plentifully in the first year, but after freezing of the aerial part, these plants lose their decorative properties, run wild, turning into ordinary rose hips.

Landing time

The optimal landing time in the northern regions is April-May; if the seedling is bought in a container with "native" soil, it is permissible to plant it on summer days. In the fall, planting seedlings of John Cabot is risky: early frosts will prevent the plant from rooting and preparing for winter.

Seat selection

Canadian roses are drought-resistant, their roots do not like the close occurrence of groundwater, and shoots are lowlands where cold air stagnates. The swampy soil of lowlands contributes to the development of disease. For planting, you need to choose elevated sunny places with an orientation to the south, southwest, southeast. It is worth taking care of protecting the bushes from the northern winds, but the southern wall of the building is not the best place for Canada. Several times during the winter, an uncoated rose will suffer thaws and frosts, and this, in the end, can destroy it.

Soil preparation

For planting, moderately moist loamy soil with a cultural layer to a depth of 40-50 cm is suitable. The groundwater level should not be higher than 1 m. For planting, prepare fertile soil - a mixture of the components:

• peat;
• humus;
• ashes;
• sand;
• manure (optimally - horse).

Sand is used to drain and give the bush stability. All other elements are needed to power the roses.

Landing

Planting a rose bush is best done together - four hands:

1. It is necessary to dig a hole measuring 70 x 70 cm (depth and diameter).
2. Two-thirds fill it with prepared fertile soil, water.
3. One person holds a seedling so that its root neck deepens into a hole 3 cm below the surface (three fingers wide).
4. Another at this time spreads the roots of the bush in the hole, falls asleep with fertile soil, rams.
5. The seedling is abundantly watered and mulched.

After watering and compaction of the soil, the root neck should remain underground - this creates the possibility of restoration of the plant if the ground part freezes.

The root neck of the seedling should be 3-8 cm below the surface of the hole

Care

To a florist who is used to conjuring over moody roses, caring for the Canadians will seem quite simple:

• you need to water John Cabot in the spring and summer, 1-2 times a week. Humidification is carried out in the evening, when the heat subsides, water is poured under the roots, trying not to wet the foliage and shoots once again. For each bush, up to 10 liters of water are poured. In early autumn, watering is stopped so as not to cause the formation of extra shoots before wintering;
• Canadian roses begin to feed on the second year after planting. In spring, the bushes are fed: with manure - up to 5 kg for each bush; nitrogen fertilizers - up to 30 g per plant; superphosphate (30g); potassium salt (up to 15g). In summer, every 2-3 weeks, roses should be "treated" with liquid organics - 5 liters of infusion of mullein or horse manure are introduced;
• pruning in the fall. Before wintering, light pruning is done: cut inflorescences, leaving the outer bud at the top of the shoot - a branch will grow out of it not inside but on the outside of the bush, which will save it from thickening. It is worth cutting out all young shoots whose spikes fit tightly on a branch - a weak bark will not protect them from freezing, and dead shoots are unnecessary stress for the plant. Well, of course, it is worth removing all dry and diseased branches, if any.

Spring pruning eliminates frost-bitten, weak stems. The branches growing inward are cut off, the stems giving the bush a disheveled appearance. Only the largest shoots with small upper buds are left. Abundant small flowers from weak buds reduce the decorativeness of the bush. Spring pruning is carried out during the period of kidney swelling, you need to cut the stem at an angle of 45 °.

Wintering. All representatives of the roses from the Explorer series do not need shelter for the winter - they calmly tolerate frosts up to 35-40 ° C, winter damage to the stems. In the spring, canadas of these varieties quickly regenerate and bloom, as if nothing had happened. John Cabot variety will bloom more luxuriantly and abundantly if the bush is huddled for the winter, bend shoots to the ground and provide full coverage with snow.

Bloom

Enchanting flowering is one of the strengths of the John Cabot variety: it is able to form several dozen roses in a brush, moreover, in different shades, which depend on the age of the flowers. The first 2-3 years, the bush has single non-double flowers, betraying its kinship with wild rose. John Cabot is fully operational for 3-4 years.

Flowering Bush John Cabot

Flowering periods

For the first time, the abundant color of the bush falls in mid-June-July, it lasts 1.5-2 months. In the second half of summer, the plant has rare solitary rose flowers, but attracts with glossy dark green foliage. In early September, a second burst of flowering begins - until the colds. Many ripening buds do not have time to open.

Active care

Being in the phase of active flowering, the climbing rose constantly "thirsty and eat." Water for irrigation requires 3-4 times more than during dormancy. It is good to add nitroammophoska into the water (2 tbsp. L. Per bucket); infusion of manure (0.5 l / 10l). With this care, the bush blooms 7-10 days longer. Young shoots are growing more actively, which will give color next year.

The rose does not bloom: what to do

Canadians may not produce color if cropped incorrectly. Buds of climbing roses are tied on the shoots that grew last year. If they are cut incorrectly in spring or autumn, then you can be left without flowers. Rose growers apply the following trick in spring: they force all overwintered stems to spread along the ground. So, substitution shoots are formed at the base of the seedling - the basis of the next year's crop. As soon as they grow to 40-60 cm, the flower stalks are straightened, attached to a support on which they bloom. Another reason for the poor flowering of canadas can be a lack of nutrition, watering. And finally, you can simply confuse the varieties: bushy types of roses form the ovaries on the tops of the shoots - the rest of the buds are vegetative. If you cut these tops in the spring, then there will be no flowering.

Flower propagation

John Cabot can be propagated by dividing the bush, layering, but the optimal way to propagate the variety is cuttings. Using this method, root-own seedlings are obtained that preserve all the declared varietal properties: frost resistance, immunity to pests and diseases, decorativeness. Cherenkovka order:

1. Cutting cuttings is best during the summer flowering period.
2. Choose the strongest shoots of the first year of flowering for cuttings, not shorter than 20 cm.
3. Free them from greens, leaving a couple of leaves on top.
4. Plant in a trench, deepening almost the entire length - to the first leaf.
5. Cover the cuttings with paper bags (from sunburn) and plastic bottles (from the vagaries of the weather).
6. With abundant watering, cuttings not only quickly take root, but also grow by autumn from their paper and plastic shelters.
7. Plants winter under a layer of earth and snow, and by the fall of next year become flowering rose bushes.

Roses hedge John Cabot

Diseases, pests, prevention

John Cabot is resistant to disease, but prevention is also necessary for him. For convenience, the most common problems of rose bushes and methods for solving them are systematized in the table.

General measures for the prevention of diseases: do not plant roses in waterlogged areas; collect and burn all plant waste; do not abuse nitrogen fertilizers and sprinkling. The rest will complete the healthy immunity of Canadian roses, which are famous for their resistance to adverse vegetation conditions.